Thom Browne Spring RTW 2023 Analysis
Writing - Research -
Writing - Research -
Identify one collection from a specific designer or brand (active any time after 1959). Focusing on themes, historical references, and the designer’s philosophy. This includes a 150-word abstract, a 5-page analysis with aesthetic and cultural influences, and images from the show.
THE
ASK
THE PROCESS
The Thought Process
Research and Breakdown
When given this assignment, I immediately thought of Thom Browne, someone I truly look up to when it comes to creative endeavors and storytelling.
With storytelling, Browne’s inspirations derived from the traditional storytelling, theater, and the traditional story of Cinderella. With a modern and contemporary spin, Browne has given us a new rendition of Cinderella through his collection.
Taken place in Palais Garnier in Paris, Browne provides a whimsical and grandeur collection. The theme weaves together elements of classic fairy tales, gender role subversion, and a celebration of both classic and avant-garde fashion artistry.
Skills Used
Research, Writing, Garment Analysis, Proficiency in Google Suite
Historical Contexts of Browne
Browne takes inspiration from many eras dating from the 18th century to the 20th. The overarching theme to me was proportional play that invokes fantasy from the 50s poodle skirts to the Victorian dramatics of Opera coats and crinolines. It all invokes fantasy and surrealism.
What the Story Unfolds
Browne’s use of silk taffeta opera coats and structured tailoring evokes the opulence of 18th and 19th-century outerwear, drawing from Victorian and Edwardian craftsmanship with its layering and luxurious embellishments.
Act 2 relives the 1950s: involving do-wop happy music and poodle skirts, oxford tailoring, and an overall preppy-like feel while tying in the extravagance and femininity of their time. Polka dot motifs throughout the show invoke the cheerful 50s vibe.
Furthering, the theater/opera appeal, Gwendoline Christie hums an aria from Cendrellion, the opera of Cinderella.
Teddy Girls circa 1950s
The true star of this act is Cinderella’s cat Lucifer played by Bella Hadid wearing a black duchess jacket embellished with yarn-like polkadots to emphasize the cat idea, a satin pleated mini skirt with a tweed y-string underwear, and a tuxedo trompe loeil corset. This specific outfit using the idea of a masculine outfit could be a nod to the subculture style of the Teddy Girls, a girl gang in the 50s who set them apart from the standard of fashion and paved a new age for androgyny.
The Teddy Girls adopts the sartorial fashion of boxy single-breasted jackets and later adopts the punk mohawk to emphasize their nonconforming style to society.
Key Takeaways
What I’ve Learned
I’ve learned a lot from this collection from applying lessons to real time shows, the idea of creativity, and more importantly story-telling. Thom Browne has opened my eyes a lot about the question of “why create?”. His compelling techniques really speak for itself and transports you into a different environment.
I’ve also sat with this collection on the deeper meanings of this shoot, in some sense, it feels like it’s a response to non-conformity and the idea of identity. Furthermore, it was interesting to see him choose eras that were very strict societal norms like gendered clothing and heteronormative identities but use it in a way that resonates deeply while still being visually beautiful and oddly nostalgic. To create a piece where people analyze and interpret and feel is what makes him a true designer.